Even if we are not strictly vegan, many of us are conscientious about our diet and spend time reading labels in the supermarket to check for additives, preservatives, and other chemical ingredients. But, are we also doing this with our cosmetic and skin care products? “More and more people are and should be,” says Kate Townshend, owner and founder of Harmless House, an online shop for premium vegan, organic, natural and cruelty-free products.  This is because the substances we put on our bodies, hair, and teeth (products like body lotion, shampoo, and toothpaste), can and do get absorbed through our skin and into our bloodstream. Research is now showing that many of the chemicals in our mainstream skincare and body products can cause dangerous hormone imbalances and, in the long run, can increase the likelihood of cancer. Add this grim fact to the reality of animal testing, and many of the “old faithfuls” we have been buying for years start to look unappealing and potentially dangerous. Time for a re-think, we think!

Dangers of Parabens and Other Chemicals
One of the most common cosmetic ingredients is parabens, an ingredient which has come into the spotlight in the last few years, as research reveals its dangers. Parabens are preservatives used to extend the shelf life of products by prohibiting the growth of mold and bacteria. They fall under many names, but the most common ones are: Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben and Isobutylparaben. Approximately 75 to 90% of products use parabens.

“But it’s only going on your skin- right? It’s not like we are eating it!” Wrong. The chemicals in the food we eat are filtered through our kidneys and liver, and most end of being excreted from the body. Substances applied to the skin, however, are absorbed straight into the blood stream: this is how and why nicotine patches and birth control/hormone therapy patches work. Chemicals from the daily products we happily rub all over our skin are often deposited and stored in fat around the body. In the case of parabens, research is suggesting that these particular chemicals often accumulate in breast tissue, and are less likely to be flushed from our system. Parabens mimic oestrogen, which is one of the factors in the development of breast cancer. Research is starting to show a frightening link between cancer and the products we use. Recent research published in the Journal of Applied Toxicology in January 2012 found parabens present in 99% of breast cancer tissues tested. In addition, oestrogen mimickers cause our body to produce less of its own natural hormones, which can also lead to fertility problems for both men and women, premature puberty in young girls (early menstruation is linked to a higher chance of breast cancer in later life), and possibly premature menopause. In men, the excess oestrogen can cause abnormally large breasts.

Townshend says, “The reason these ingredients feature in almost all our cosmetic products is that the cosmetic industry is among the least regulated. So many synthetic ingredients are still used in products today because they are the cheapest available option and manufacturers are more concerned with their bottom line than they are with the consumers’ safety.”

Anti-Cruelty Products
In addition to protecting ourselves from harmful chemicals, we should also be aware of how some companies do animal testing with their products. Beauty Without Cruelty (www.bwcsa.co.za) is an animal rights organisation whose primary objective is to educate and inform about the exploitation and abuse of animals. They provide information on animal testing for cosmetics, and advice on what to buy and what not to.  They also have their own cosmetics range.

What Can We do?
A bit of knowledge can go a long way, and almost everything you need to know is on the back of the bottle, including ingredients and certifications. Along with learning what to avoid and watch out for, also learn which ingredients are good. Avoiding parabens is a good first step, but there are many other ingredients to look out for too. A product that says it is “natural” means very little actually, and holds no weight legally.  An organic certification is an excellent way to know that your product contains not only natural ingredients, but organic ingredients too. Anti cruelty certifications, like the one offered by Choose Cruelty Free, will also ensure that animals were not harmed when developing the product.

By Debbie Banda

Some recommended vegan, natural, certified organic and cruelty-free products:

Sanctum Body Balm provides deeply penetrating moisture, which makes it ideal for winter. The scent is subtle and comforting

Eco-Dent Cinnamon Tooth Powder is a natural alternative to conventional toothpastes, which can contain harmful synthetic ingredients.

BWC Creamy Eye Makeup Remover contains gentle organic herbal extracts and rich emollients to remove all types of makeup without irritation.

These products are all available from www.harmlesshouse.co.za

“You don’t have to be a classically beautiful person, whatever that means in your culture, to attain beauty,” says Melanie Sachs, author of Ayurvedic Beauty Care. “Ayurvedic beauty is about loving the skin you’re in, about learning how to bring out your best and be your best.”

Based on the 3 000-year-old Hindu scripture, the Atharva-Veda, Ayurveda is a science that instructs practitioners in methods to regulate the processes of the human body, and to maintain one’s beauty, through the use of spices and other organic ingredients. Before applying these methods, it is necessary to understand that Ayurveda incorporates the basis of the five elements: Space, Air, Fire, Water and Earth, which through their combinations work to create the three Doshas (Life Forces): Vata, Pitta and Kapha. By working with knowledge of these qualities, this helps us to gauge what is going on externally and internally at the different times and gives us a basis from which to follow and mindfully adapt to any changes.

Skin Reflections
According Claire Stephenson, a Wellness Consultant specialising in Ayurveda, since the skin is the body’s largest organ, it is often the first to reflect one’s ‘Ayurvedic make-up’ and any influences of an imbalance in one’s natural state of being (Prakriti). Therefore, she explains, “When choosing products for skin types, it is important to remember that every individual is unique in their Dosha combination, which then is also affected by the environment and seasonal changes.” Outlined below, these can be differentiated as follows:

Vata Dosha (Ether= space, Air= movement) –  In general findings, these individuals have a dry skin type and are often pale and cool to the touch, especially on their hands and feet. They tend to have thin skin, which is fine and porous and may have dry, rough or flaky patches. They are also climate sensitive, where in dry conditions their sensitivity would be heightened. When choosing oils for body  massage, sesame seed is recommended to counteract the drying and cooling properties of the elements comprising this Dosha. Essential oils that may also be used for treating this skin type include Sweet Orange or Geranium. Or warming and pleasant oils such as Cinnamon, Frankincense, Sandalwood & Basil.

Pitta Dosha (Predominantly Fire) – These individuals are mostly fair skinned, with a peachy, copper or freckled complexion. Soft, lustrous and warm, they generally they have an oily skin type and open pores. In the summer time, due to the excess in Pitta in the environment, they may develop congestion or skin pustules if there is an imbalance. This Dosha does well when treated with coconut oil, which works to cool down the heating and transforming nature of the fire element. Jasmine or Sandalwood can also be used as essential oils, as well as Rose, Vetiver, Lemongrass and Lavender.

Kapha Dosha (Water and Earth) – Admired for their “peaches and cream complexion”, these individuals often have thick, moist and pale skins. While they too are soft and cool to touch, they are not as sensitive as the other skin types and in most instances they tone and age well. Kapha Dosha may also use sesame seed oil in therapeutic application, or in some instances mustard seed is also effective depending on seasonal influences due to its spicy, heating properties. Hot and spicy Essential Oils such as Camphor, Cedar, Cinnamon, Clove, Musk, Sage, Thyme, Frankincense and Myrrh can also be blended to a Sesame Oil base.

There are also various product ranges specially designed for treating different skin types based on the principals of the Doshas. An exciting new brand, fast becoming a popular choice for therapists wishing to use natural products, is Biotique. Developed in Switzerland and imported from India, the product is organic-certified and tailor suited in accordance with each individual’s needs.

That said, it must be remembered that beauty care is more than skin deep and requires paying careful attention to one’s diet and lifestyle. In general, Ayurveda recommends a healthy, largely whole food, vegetarian diet for all types of constitutions, as well as proper exercise, sleep, hygiene practice and last but not least, meditation practice.

“What we are aiming to achieve is to radiate, from the inside out,” says Claire. Thus in order to enhance our outer beauty, introspection and knowledge must come first and foremost.

For more information on Ayurvedic treatments contact: The Skin & Body Care Professional on 082 338 8001 or email: claritystephenson@gmail.com

By Hayley Alexander

Top tips for essential oils

Eucalyptus Oil
Energises your spirit
Half fill a basin with hot water, add three drops of eucalyptus essential oil. Close your eyes and put your face over the basin with a towel over your head. Draw in three deep breaths.

Rose Geranium Oil
Clears unwanted tension
Immerse a face cloth in aromatic water (fill a bowl with 200ml water and three drops of rose geranium oil). Wring it out and place in a clean plastic bag and put into your handbag. Use throughout the day to wipe away any unwanted tension.

Peppermint
A miracle for work
Add three drops of peppermint oil to a cup of boiling water at work, take it back to your desk and pick up the cup every now and then and inhale.

Bergamot
For an aromatic drive home
Place a tissue with two to four drops of essential oil into the air-conditioning duct of your car. Choose essential oils that keep you focused and awake, like bergamot, rosemary, grapefruit, lemon and lime.

Lavender and Marjoram
Sleep tight secret
Take a quick three minute sponge bath before going to bed by adding three drops of essential oil to your bath water and using a face cloth to sponge your body. Try lavender and marjoram – it’ll help you sleep peacefully.

Aromatherapy shower

For an invigorating power shower, sprinkle some essential oils (like rosemary or lemon) on an absorbent face cloth and leave it on the shower floor. The hot water from the shower hits the cloth and disperses the oils. This is an invigorating energiser and leaves your bathroom smelling fresh for the day.